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How to break your back and not become a marshmallow.

In this issue Dr J takes a look at cartilage damage in the wrist (triangular fibrocartilage complex, or TFCC for short), the real and potential dilemmas of being struck by rock-fall, and how an enormous man called Gatito, meaning kitten, is the very definition of why a smashed ankle doesn’t necessarily need to hold you back.

Having dislocated an ankle while bouldering, Dr J can empathize. Will it ever be normal? No. Like sands through the hour glass, we discuss elbow tendonosis yet again. Also check out Dodgy Elbows [issue 156], and the more recent update, Dodgy Elbows Revisited [issue 223].

I’m pretty sure Molly has a crush on me. This is the second time she has written in, although this time it is about a chondral fracture in her knee from a bouldering fall rather than the last time when she had to grab her bum because she tore her hamstring insertion. Palm pain from pocket pulling? It’s probably a lumbrical tear, and yet another practical use for the Dr J Test.

Crimping is associated with pulley injuries. Slopers are associated with wrist injuries, namely damage to that pesky little thing called the triangular fibrocartilage complex, or TFCC for short. Our second question is from . dude who ruptured a finger tendon. Holy leaping short-arses, Batman! Yes Robin, you heard me. Ruptured. Finger. Tendon. Can’t say I have ever seen one in real life.

Opioid pain medication can knock your testosterone levels to somewhere south of your ankles. So does taking testosterone supplements affect your climbing? Oh, and here’s a surprise, another elbow with medial epicondylosis. How about surgery for that? Also check out Dodgy Elbows [issue 156], and the more recent update, Dodgy Elbows Revisited [issue 223].

Looking down the barrel of a third operation to repair ligament and triangular fibrocartilage complex (TFCC) damage in your wrist is a solid reason to question your choice of sports. Additionally, we take a squiz at the pitfalls of caffeine withdrawal. Here’s an idea – don’t stop!

The long run on wrist injuries continues in this installment of Ask Dr J – a TFCC tear, a pinch of bone necrosis and a surgeon who shall here after be referred to as Captain Tactless. Let me say this straight – injectable therapies like PRP injections for anything at all is about as therapeutically effective as Joan Rivers would be as Secretary Of State. For elbow tendonosis try an eccentric weight program (Dodgy Elbows [issue 156], and the more recent update, Dodgy Elbows Revisited [issue 223]).

Does stretching achieve anything more than improve your bedroom repertoire? As well, that age old problem of belayer’s neck