All Ankle Back Elbow Finger Other Shoulder Wrist
There are actually people who don’t use chalk. It true, no joke. And they climb HARD! So if chalk is messing with your skin, simples, don’t use it. We also take a look at what could be the cause of lumps forming on your fingers.
Dr J, having suffered the ignominy of a blown hammy en route, looks at how best to approach rehab and your return to climbing. Broken Finger? Yep had one of them as well.
Does hypermobility lead to tendonosis? No, that’s a croc of shit. Read on. Have a look at Dodgy Elbows [issue 156], and the more recent update, Dodgy Elbows Revisited [issue 223] for an in depth look at elbow tendonosis rehab. And we look at yet another story of “ You will never climb again”. I mean, really, people climb with no legs, this guy only has a bit of his patella missing.
How to break your back and not become a marshmallow.
In this issue Dr J takes a look at cartilage damage in the wrist (triangular fibrocartilage complex, or TFCC for short), the real and potential dilemmas of being struck by rock-fall, and how an enormous man called Gatito, meaning kitten, is the very definition of why a smashed ankle doesn’t necessarily need to hold you back.
Having dislocated an ankle while bouldering, Dr J can empathize. Will it ever be normal? No. Like sands through the hour glass, we discuss elbow tendonosis yet again. Also check out Dodgy Elbows [issue 156], and the more recent update, Dodgy Elbows Revisited [issue 223].
I’m pretty sure Molly has a crush on me. This is the second time she has written in, although this time it is about a chondral fracture in her knee from a bouldering fall rather than the last time when she had to grab her bum because she tore her hamstring insertion. Palm pain from pocket pulling? It’s probably a lumbrical tear, and yet another practical use for the Dr J Test.
Crimping is associated with pulley injuries. Slopers are associated with wrist injuries, namely damage to that pesky little thing called the triangular fibrocartilage complex, or TFCC for short. Our second question is from . dude who ruptured a finger tendon. Holy leaping short-arses, Batman! Yes Robin, you heard me. Ruptured. Finger. Tendon. Can’t say I have ever seen one in real life.
Opioid pain medication can knock your testosterone levels to somewhere south of your ankles. So does taking testosterone supplements affect your climbing? Oh, and here’s a surprise, another elbow with medial epicondylosis. How about surgery for that? Also check out Dodgy Elbows [issue 156], and the more recent update, Dodgy Elbows Revisited [issue 223].